Natal Plum - Bad News

My plum tree isn't looking so good. It held up for a while, but some of the leaves started turning red several weeks ago. At first I thought it might be due to the abuse it received when I first acquired it. I certainly haven't ruled out the intense pruning or the roots and branches, repotting of the tree into a bonsai pot, and changing its surroundings. However, I think I may have a clue as to the problem.

Watering may be the most difficult part of owning a bonsai. While my fig tree needs watering about once per week, my natal plum tree requires more frequent watering. Several factors including the airy soil and pot shape affect this. Unfortunately, I have been rather absorbed in skiing and other weekend activities and my two bonsai have been watered at about the same frequency. This is probably the main reason that my plant isn't doing so hot.

I am now keeping track of my plum bonsai more carefully. It seems to be needing water every 3 or 4 days. I only hope that I am not too late as many of the leaves that turned have fallen off. With any luck, more leaf changing will cease and my tree will return to its normal health.

Origami - The Basics

It is important to remember that origami is simply about folding paper. There are only two ways to fold paper: mountain folds and valley folds. These refer to the direction of the fold when keeping one side of the paper facing up. A mountain fold is created by folding the ends of the paper away from you so that a crease is formed pointing up at you, hence mountain. A valley fold is just the opposite, fold the ends of the paper upward so the crease is formed pointing away from you. These folds are the basis of all origami models.

The easiest origami models are diplayed in pictured diagrams. They are a step by step instruction on how to fold a model beginning with a square of paper. Each step shows the model in its current state and displays lines that indicate the required mountain and/or valley folds to complete the step. There are also various symbols that indicate basic folding techniques. These symbols are based on the Yoshizawa-Randlett system and should be reviewed. I won't provide a link as I have learned this system from various places and a simple search will be adequate.

Some origami models are based only on mountain and valley folds. What I mean by this is there is no order of folds or pictures of steps. These models are folded by crease patterns or CPs. A CP is a drawing of the folds required to finish the model. The picture to the right has both a crease pattern and a diagram of an origami crane. Most crease patterns are not this descriptive and only provide instructions for the base of the model.

A base is a stepping stone for any origami model. For some models like the crane, a base is a starting point to save time. An author might say, "Start with a bird base." This allows the model creator to focus on the specifics of their model instead of basic folding instructions. When folding a crease pattern, the base is an intermediate step that represents the completion of the CP. The base will not necessarily look like the final model, but it can be shaped into it. This allows for some creativity and personalization of the model.

The below two images are two ways of demonstrating the bird base. The left is a diagram showing the instructions in a specific order of folds. This method is easiest for beginners, but leaves extra creases on the final model. The right image is the crease pattern for the bird base. Don't believe me? Fold the model with the instructions on the top and then unfold it and look at where the main creases are. Crease patterns are used to save space and time when explaining a model. The challenge is getting the folds on a CP in the correct location and figuring out how to collapse it. More on this as I learn how to fold them.

Natal Plum - An Intro to Bonsai Tree

Meet the newest member of my bonsai family! As I mentioned, I attended an Intro to Bonsai class at Bonsai West this past weekend and as part of the class, was given a new tree. The new tree is a natal plum tree (Carissa Macrocarpa) and I'm very excited about it. This is not due to the fact that my new tree is particularly beautiful, but to the fact that I made it what it is.

The class started out with some basic instruction on bonsai care and culture. I had attended a free seminar the week before and gotten a lot of the information already, but I didn't mind some individual consideration. After some time, the instructor, Glen, told us to look at the plum trees and choose one that popped out at us. I was one of the first members of the class to reach the trees and was able to pick up each one and examine it. Based on my reading and instruction, I was looking for a tree that had a defined trunk line. I narrowed my selection down to two trees: one was a small, neat looking tree that stood about 6 inches tall with a trunk curving off to the right; the second was a disheveled, 8 or 9 inch tree that also curved to the right. I began looking through the branches of the two trying to see which might be a better choice. The first tree was clearly a good choice, but didn't seem like it needed much work. I eventually decided on the second tree because of the vigorous growth across the entire tree. While there were some leaves that had discoloration, I knew this was because of the dense packing of leaves.

After we had all sat down with our respective trees, the instructor walked over and chose the other tree I had held. I began to feel disappointed that I had made the wrong decision. He proceeded to tell us that he had already pruned this tree to where he wanted it. He showed us how to re-pot a bonsai plant using his model and told us to begin by thinning out the amount of leaves on our tree. I looked down at my messy cluster of branches and leaves totally disheartened. How would I ever make this tree into a bonsai plant I could be proud of?

I began by telling myself that since I didn't like my tree, it wouldn't matter if I attacked it in an attempt to reform it's appearance. While the instructor took a break, I tore off any leaves that were discolored or damaged. The goal here is to remove the weak leaves to give stronger leaves more access to sunlight. At this point, my pruning seemed futile as my tree looked more like a small bush than a bonsai. I stopped pruning leaves to examine the shape of my tree more closely. I realized that my trunk rose from the soil about 2 inches and then curved in a clockwise direction upwards. When the instructor returned, I asked if pruning back a significant portion of the branches and re-potting would kill my plant. I showed him the line I could see and he pointed out a few branches to remove that I was already imagining gone. I began to cut branches that didn't fit my style.

My tree forms a spiral with branches pointing outward. I removed any branch that came off the trunk straight upward or pointing toward the center of the spiral. This created a defined front of my tree. This is a location that a bonsai should always be viewed from. While it is important to examine the entire tree, all bonsai are displayed with a front and an apex (the top focal point of the tree). Upon asking my instructor, I began to trim back the remaining branches in order to maintain the proportions of height and girth. I also removed a few more leaves to balance the density of each branch.

The next step is to re-pot the tree. We all chose a bonsai pot to go along with our starter tree. I selected a dark blue, almost purple pot to compliment the minds impression of a plum. To re-pot, I delicately removed my plum tree from its starter pot and raked away some of the soil around the roots. The goal is to expose some nebari or roots that can be seen and provide character to the tree. I then raked and trimmed away some of the extra roots on the bottom of the root ball. The goal here is to encourage radial growth, not depth. One thing that Bonsai West insisted on is a consistent soil mixture. They claim that being a bonsai master is about being in tune with your trees, but using different soil mixtures will make this impossibly difficult. Using their soil, I added some to my pot and pushed the anchoring wires through the root ball. I then twisted the wires, cut off the excess, and buried it into the soil. The final step is to add soil to the pot and compress it down, and compress it down more, and keep pressing to make sure there's no air around the roots. When this is completed, water the plant by dunking and wait for the bubbles to stop.

I lucked out with how my final presentation turned out. My tree is positioned off center, but the mass of the tree is evenly balanced across the pot. I also added a small rock that has a similar slope to the trunk. The rock duals as a decoration and a watering tool as it is time to water when the soil beneath it drys.

I'm very happy with my plum and I'm glad that I was able to get into the pruning and display some bravery. While I have a new bonsai model in my house that actually looks like a bonsai, I still have to go through the same process with my fig. However, that will have to wait for spring. My plum experienced spring a little earlier in the Bonsai West greenhouse.

Thanks for reading this novel of an entry.

Origami

Origami is the first Japanese hobby that captured my interest. While the art of folding paper may seem simple, it is a delicate and long process. This is made increasingly more difficult when attempting to document the process. I will attemt to divulge into some of what I have learned about origami in an attempt to help others who are trying out this ancient artform.

I'll start out with some background. Origami comes in many shapes and sizes, but these can all be separated into categories. True origami refers to a model that is folded from a square sheet with no cuts or adhesives. Models range from the basic origami crane to super complex models folded from a 6' by 6' sheet. True origami is a passion for me because of the artistic nature involved in making a square into something much more. Modular origami is a type that combines many sheets of paper to create geometric shapes and designs. This style interests me because it appeals to the engineer in me. It also happens to be some of the easiest to teach. Not all origami uses a square sheet. I will refer to anything that isn't true or modular origami as general origami. While most general models can be formed using a sheet that has a section folded behind, it is sometimes easier to use and display cut sheets. An example of this style is many flower models are made from irregularly shaped sheets. The weight of extra paper folded behind some of the petals would destroy the elegant image of the design.

I hope to use my blog to display and teach origami. I have already progressed significantly by reading forums and other websites on origami and I recommend doing the same. Otherwise, I hope you can enjoy the folding sequences that I've followed or maybe you'll just race forward to the final model. Either way, welcome.

Ficus Oriental - Trimmings

Last week I trimmed my bonsai tree. I decided that the growth on some of the shoots was getting a little out of control, so I cut any growth over a few inches. I left two or three leaves on each shoot to allow continued expansion of the branch. I also did some trimming of previous cuts. However, I learned that I don't have the correct tools.

I thought that basic trimming tools and maybe a good pair of scissors would be sufficient for my bonsai work. This was a bad assumption as there are specific tools for the art of bonsai. I learned that the scissors resemble two knife blades coming together as opposed to the blunt cutting edge of most scissors. There is also a specific tool that cuts a concave shape to make a trimming flush with the trunk. This shape also facilitates faster healing of the cut.

While I have made some progress, I need to acquire the correct tools or attend a "Get Wired" class at Bonsai West. I have plans to do this next month. In the short term, I have attended an "Intro to Bonsai" class and I will discuss my education and the newest addition to my collection soon.

Ficus Oriental - Continued Care

Ah, the new year. Now that the holidays are over, it's time to get back to Bonsai.

I acquired an instructive book for Christmas that I have been reading and it suggests making cuts to my tree during the off season. This is due to the fact that ficus trees are in a family of trees that make rubber and they ooze when cut or damaged. This has encouraged me to pursue some design help and begin formulating ideas for the future of my tree.

I stopped by Bonsai West on my way home from work not long ago and asked a few questions. I confirmed that watering the tree by submersion is the correct method. However, my watering frequency may be off. I have been watering the tree every 10 to 14 days or whenever the soil is dry. My soil testing method has been to bury my finger slightly into the soil and if I feel moisture, don't water. Apparently, my ficus tree probably wants water every 7 to 10 days which produces a dryness to the soil surface, but some moisture below. This new watering scheme has worked well and I believe there has been some growth (also the weeds seem to be very happy which is another good indicator). I also asked about trimming my tree.

The advice given was that since it is winter, trimming is fine, but only remove up to 10% of the foliage. This is fine seeing as I don't plan on going crazy, I just have some clean up work to do. My first task will be to trim previous trimmings closer to the trunk or branch. Since this tree was greenhouse grown, many of the cuts were hastily done and should be refined. Bonsai West confirmed this and warned of die back. This refers to a small length before the cut that dies to protect the rest of the tree. Leaving a small amount between the cut point and the nearest leaf is necessary so the leaf won't die as well. Good thing I asked!

I am hoping to make my first trimmings this week. Stay tuned for photos (if blogspot cooperates) of the endeavor.

Ficus Oriental - A Good and Propper Watering

Today I learned that I've been watering my tree all wrong. Instead of adding water to the soil as you would a plant in the ground, the propper technique is apparently to submerge the planting in water. Look how much happier that soil is now that it is drenched. Unfortunately, this also means that I will be forced to patiently wait a long, long time for the soil to dry out and require additional watering.

I've been thinking a lot about the conditions that I leave my plant in lately. I'm confindent that it is getting enough sunlight without the light being too intense. However, I'm concerned about temperature and humidity. Considering no leaves have fallen and it's been a week and a half, the conditions can't be terrible, but I'd like to make them better. My house is kept at about 60 degrees F thoughout most of the day. This is the minimum temperature recommended for this tree. My house is also very dry and I'm concerned about the lack of general humidity.

My improvements for these problems are as follows. While 60 may be a bit cold, my plant is located on a bed by a baseboard heater. It doesn't get a direct draft from this heat source, but I think that it may help varry the temperature slightly higher than 60 degrees. For humidity, I've added a tray underneath the pot with some water in it. I am considering misting the leaves as well. My main goal is to keep the plant alive until Spring.

I need to do more research on how to shape my ficus. I know that I should repot it in the Spring so that is my current task in queue. Another objective is to figure out the propper season for pruning. There are several branches that require trimming as well as previous cuts that seem to require more attention (see the old branch nubs in the picture). With a little luck and some care, I hope to be adding an entry with some pre-cut and post-cut pictures.

Thanks for reading.